THE OMNIVORE'S SOLUTION

Stuck in Lodi Again

My trip is a couple of weeks back, but the memories of the wines tasted linger! Lodi, the famous, yet laid back wine region between the Sierra Foothills and the San Francisco Bay, has a lot more to offer than its famous Lodi Zinfandels. Mostly, the area is still farm country, and certainly not geared towards a lot of tourist traffic, but the vintners are very proud of the wines they are making and they love to present their products, and pull that special bottle open when they see that you are interested! Vino Piazza is a great way of showcasing wines of different wineries in a market-square setting. Many winemakers are now producing wines from grapes like Sangiovese and the Bordeaux varietals. At Boitano Family Wines, Bob Boitano showed me some outstanding, expressive Barberas. It was very educational to taste the 2004, 2005 and 2006 Boitano Family Wines Barbera ($20-24), and observe how the flavors were developing during bottle aging. The 2004 is very expressive and terroir-driven, with distinct cherry, smoke, mineral and clay flavors, with a peppery finish that lingers on and on. The 2005 is a little easier to drink and more fruit forward, but shows a lot of character, too. The 2006 needs more aging to mellow out, but shows the same potential as the 2004.

Pasos Vineyards is another example for Lodi's ability to produce classy, yet reasonably priced wines. Antonio Pasos is happy to show you his beautiful products, for example the 2005 Pasos Vineyard Collaboration Celebration Alta Mesa ($40), an impressive blend of Syrah, Grenache, Tannat, Counoise and Viognier. Its elegant mouthfeel and the eucalyptus, smoke, red cherry, spice and aromatics flavor are leading into a long, lingering finish with drying tannins. This is a wine for game and strongly flavored meat dishes, yet very European in style. The 2005 Pasos Vineyard Reserve Dastarte Lodi ($49) is another great example of a full, elegant and complex Bordeaux-style wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec make for a full, rich, mouthfilling wine which is starting out with lush fruitiness, leading into wood and soft spice flavors. The finish is showing a lot of mint, cedar and smoke. Both wines need more time in the cellar, but are delicious already.

Liquid Gold from the Sierra Foothills - El Dorado County

In this region, you will stumble across one or the other now deserted goldmine from the Wild West years. Who would have thought that this somewhat rugged area would produce such great wines one day? Some of the winding roads in the mountains require a 10 (!) mile speed limit, and at times, I wasn't sure if my little car would be able to make it. Obviously, the climate is good for grape growing. Jodar is making an exceptional blend of Bordeaux varietals, the 2004 Jodar Apollo's Lyre (Estate Bottled) Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend ($32). If you like lots of brown spice flavors, such as nutmeg, clove, cinnamon and allspice in your wine, this one is for you. It also shows nice black fruit, the wine is full-bodied without being heavy, layered and complex, with a long finish. The firm tannins and acidity make this a wine that needs food to really shine.

In a pocket with a foggy, cooler microclimate, Madrona Winery grows an expressive Nebbiolo, a grape that usually does not like to be moved from its home area in Piedmont. Their 2004 Madrona Nebbiolo displays an array of typey meat, dried herb, rose, violet, soy and strawberry flavors, it has the typical pale, brick orange color and firm tannins. Perfect with mushrooms, truffle and game dishes, and a bargain for $18! Madrona Winery is part of the Apple Hill Wine Trail, an area well suited for travelers who like to go off the beaten path.

Wineries at the Sierra Foothills - European Style Wines

The fanciest winery I've visited so far is Bella Piazza in the Shenandoah Valley. I was trying to avoid the too tourist-y places with gift shops and limos parked in the front, but this one was definitely worth a visit due to its 2004 Bella Piazza Barbera ($28), that is full, rich, yet elegant. Often, Barbera can be thin and non-descript. This winemaker managed to make a flavorful and expressive wine, with dried fruit, herb, spice, tobacco and smoke flavors. It was also interesting to taste their 11-month-old barrel sample, that showed some of the fruit and spice, but the wood flavors had not integrated yet. Their other Italian varietals, such as Sangiovese, Primitivo and Montepulciano are also worth trying. If there were just not Celine Dion blaring out of loudspeakers in their beautiful gardens...

Domaine de la Terre Rouge, on the other hand, specializes in French Rhone varietals, and creates a series of elegant, enjoyable wines. Their Easton series, which include Cabs and Zins, is worth trying as well. Jane, the co-owner of the winery, is a chef and cookbook author who is also giving out wine and food pairing notes to customers. A wine you don't stumble across every day in Amador County is the 2004 Terre Rouge Muscat-a-Petits Grains, Shenandoah ($15), a lush dessert wine with expressive flavors of ripe peaches, honey, tropical fruit and lots of melon. Enjoy this terrific wine with fresh fruit, such as sliced yellow peaches. Terre Rouge's Eau de Vie, made from plums, is certainly capable of waking up the dead. Tip: for drivers who don't want to drink any 40% alc beverage, rub a few drops on your hands and smell; this will give you an idea how the Eau tastes like.

A German Winemaker in the Dry Creek Valley?

Driving through the beautiful Dry Creek Valley, the German name Goepfrich on a road sign caught my attention and sure made me curious enough to call this winemaker from his driveway for an appointment. Ray and Bonnie Goepfrich make about 600 cases of hand-crafted Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and one for sure can taste that these wines are a labor of love (and backbreaking work in the vineyard). Ray Goepfrich's parents immigrated from Germany to the US, where they met and got married. Interestingly, Goepfrich also sells German Rieslings from Klemmer in Westhofen in the Rheinhessen region, an area where I've spent 6 years of my life and got to know and to love wine! Now to Goepfrich's wines. Everything tastes truly great, but the 2006 Goepfrich Syrah ($33) is my favorite, with its lovely pepper, crushed berry, licorice, spice and cinnamon flavors. The finish is long and lingering, with hints of wood and earth notes. Bone-dry and with good structure, this is not a wimpy wine, and it needs robust meat dishes. The wines are available at the winery only, but if you happen to be in the area, be sure to pay a visit!

The Russian River Valley Wineries and Wines

In search for cooler climate wines, I was heading out to Sonoma County last weekend. The Russian River Valley is cooled during the night by Pacific Ocean fog, and allows to grow more subtle, yet expressive and terroir-driven wines. First stop was at Christopher Creek Winery. Their 2006 Christopher Creek Russian River "Catie's Corner" Viognier for $28 (yes, the individual vineyards are very important in this area) is stainless steel fermented and therefore fresh and lively, with floral, tart yellow fruit, apricot and tropical fruit flavors. The finish is a little peppery with lots of mineral. Their best wine, however, are their Christopher Creek Russian River Estate Bottled Reserve Petite Sirahs ($32), with the 2005 released, but I also had the chance to taste the 2006 (which was even more flavorful). These wines are big and full-bodied, both are too young and need more time in the bottle, but their boysenberry, cherry, tobacco, would and herb flavors are delicious. The winemaker managed to make rich wines which are at the same time elegant on the palate.

Another one on the list is a winemaker (Limerick Lane) with the most subtle, velvety and flavorful Pinot Noir I've ever had from California. This region is not known for muted wines, and Pinots are usually fruit-driven, unelegant and too bold. The 2006 Limerick Lane Orsi Vineyard Pinot Noir ($38) is made in the Burgundian style, revealing layers and layers of toast, strawberry, cherry, humus, mushroom, and some edgy wood and smoke flavors. It is elegant and silky on the palate, with a hint of brown sugar and cola in its mineral finish that goes on and on and on. A lenghthy talk with the proprietor, Michael Collins, revealed their passion for the terroir and that "good wines are made in the vineyard"; in other words, the winemaker works with the best quality grapes and then stays "out of their way" in the winery. This can also be seen in their delicious Zinfandel and Syrah, and blends thereof. The wines are layered and full-bodied, while preserving elegance and minerality, and the flavor of the "place", the soil. Another favorite is the 2006 Limerick Lane 1023 ($38), a mouthcoating Zin/Syrah blend that is powerful and displays bold red and black fruit, smoke, pepper, vanilla, spice, toast and meat that keep lingering for a long time. Bring out the pepper steaks!

Handcrafted Wines for Carnivores (and everyone else)

The wines I've tasted in Napa last weekend for sure fall in the wines for barbecue and meat department. They are made by vintners who grow their grapes with a lot of care and take great pride in their wines. At Milat Vineyards, it is all about the wines. No tourist attractions (except for nice accomodations), no tour buses, no limos, but a spotless winemaking facility with 20 acres of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel grapes, and some Tourigo National to go into their port-style wine. All their wines are lovely, but the 2005 Milat Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($36) is certainly worth mentioning separately with its layers of rich fruit, spice and wood flavors. The tannins are not too puckery, but this wine certainly needs some more years of aging. The eucalyptus trees in the vineyard must be imposing some of their flavors into the wine; another interesting layer. An absolutely lovely Zinfandel, if not the best I have had so far, is the 2005 Milat Vineyards Napa Valley Zinfandel ($23) with its sophistication and complexity. Spices, pepper, cherry, plum and crushed berry flavors with a distinct wood and (here it is again!) eucalyptus note caress the palate. In spite of its 15.8% alcohol, it is balanced and elegant on the palate. I've enjoyed it with all kinds of cheeses and fresh French bread and olives for an al fresco lunch in the Rutherford hills!

Girard Winery is making very enjoyable wines as well. Friends of big, brooding, chewy and mouthcoating wines will enjoy the 2006 Girard Petite Sirah Napa Valley ($28), that calls for braised meat dishes.

Wine Studies at UC Davis

Coming up: a two-weeks course on wine marketing at UC Davis! For the next two weeks I will be tied up studying the business side of wine at the famous university. But, there will be some time to visit Napa and Sonoma, preferably some smaller and lesser-known vintners. I will hopefully be able to try some wines like the 2005 Ancien Chardonnay Carneros ($32). It is a lush wine with lots of tropical fruit, apple and some floral aromas, and offers a lot for friends of mouthcoating, oaky chardonnays. This producer is also making terrific Pinots.

A Treat from Spain

Spain not only turns out great soccer players, the wines are outstanding, too! A white that drinks well with either one of the dishes below is the 2007 Bodegas Valdesil Godello Montenovo ($18) from the Valdeorras appellation in the North-West of Spain. The Godello grape produces rich, vastly aromatic wines with floral and perfume notes in the nose. This highly recommended wine also reveals flavors of apple, pear, melon and a hint of honey. It is round and full on the palate with a hint of sweetness, balanced by a healthy dose of acidity. This wine makes a refreshing summer treat, goes well with seafood and fish of any kind, but also with vegetables and lighter meat dishes.

Cool Wines for Hot Nights (and Days!)

Now the mercury has climbed to almost 100F, we can finally declare that summer has arrived! Nothing spells summer better than a refreshing wine enjoyed with family and friends on the deck... I guess we can cellar the plush and heavy Cabs, Syrahs and oaky Chardonnays for the next couple of months, and go for the lighter weights. And if you think that only white wines work in this heat, try one of the reds from the list below, and serve it slightly chilled. Raise your glass to Patio Season! 

Wine (prices per 750 ml bottle)	Description	Food Recommendation
SPARKLING
Bisol Crede Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Brut, $18	More serious than most Proseccos, relatively dry, with lively bubbles. Prickly lemon and lime, mineral, a touch of green apple, accented with nut and yeast. Well-structured.	Appetizers, cocktail hour, salads, shellfish, seafood, white fish.
Heredad Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava, $25	A little pricey for a Cava, but well worth it. Very pretty bottle. Lemon, toasty and biscuit notes, intense and with long finish.	Appetizers, oysters, shellfish, white fish dishes, everything.
WHITES
2006 Chateau Chasseloir Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, $11	Fresh, with a briny, sea-salt character. Relatively neutral, makes a great food wine. Some effervescence.	Shellfish, seafood, fish dishes, salads, starters
2007 Alamos Torrontes, Argentina, $11	Refreshing and with exciting floral notes. Great value.	Appetizers, salads, fish and seafood, Asian dishes
Casa Vila Verde Alvarinho Vinho Verde, Portugal, $8	Great bargain. Lemon and floral notes. Young and fresh, lean body, well structured. Good acidity, persistent finish.	Everything, tapas, garlicky dishes.
2006 Loimer Riesling, Kamptal, Austria, $20	Full and rich, dry with wonderful fruit. Long, lingering finish. Robust, with a nice array of tropical fruit and fresh flowers.	Asian dishes, grilled fish, grilled vegetables, mushrooms
ROSES and REDS
2007 Domaine de Fondreche Instant Rose, Cotes du Ventoux, France, $14	Very lightweight and super-fresh, with some strawberry and raspberry flavors.	Great with everything, especially lighter dishes.
2007 Domaine de Cambis La Vie en Rose St Chinian, $18	Beautiful floral, rose-scented potion with a good helping of berries. Good depth, medium acidity. Enjoy not too cold.	Egg dishes, everything.
2004 Fidelis Aglianico Taburno, Italy, $17	Elegant, refreshing, relatively light on the palate, with dried flower and berry flavors. Zesty acidity.	Tapas, pizza, pasta, tomato dishes
2005 Vavasour Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand, $24	Well-made Pinot with bright strawberry and fresh mushroom flavors, modern style.	Salmon, tuna, mushrooms, veal, chicken, everything
2005 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington State, $11	Great value. Rich, fruit-forward, well-extracted and robust. Black cherry, chocolate, blueberry, wood. Long finish.	Sipping, grilled lamb, grilled beef, barbecue, grilled vegetables

Wines for Mixed Grille - On and after Memorial Day!

France's Loire region is the home of many beautiful, elegant wines that are often underrated and therefore available at a relatively moderate price level. Look no further if you are a fan of elegant understatement, and if you'd like to offer your guests at the barbecue a safe bet, and something other than the same ol' Chards. Due to their light to medium body, Loire wines make agreeable dinner accompaniments. The region closest to the ocean, Muscadet-Sevre et Maine, produces wines with briny and minerally characteristics in combination with a lemon and lime flavor profile that work great with seafood, especially scallops, shrimp and shellfish. The wines often contain a little bit of carbon dioxide that makes for an interesting and refreshing mouthfeel. These wines are versatile enough to make a good combination with harder to match vegetarian dishes, such as the garlic scape pesto over pasta.

Two good wines for approx. $10 are the 2006 Chereau Carre Chateau Chasseloir Muscadet-Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, and the Chateau de la Chesnaie Muscadet-Sevre et Maine Sur Lie. The expression "Sur Lie" does not mean that drinking this wine turns you into a liar, it describes the production method of leaving the wine on the dead yeast cells and grape skins for a while to increase the wine's flavor intensity.

Of course we must not forget the reds for our rabbit and lamb meat dishes. Go with something not too tannic, without oak and with food-friendly acidity, such as the 2005 San Aleandro Las Rocas Garnacha from the Calatayud region in Spain ($12). A very versatile crowd-pleaser with cherry, prune, cinnamon, herb and game flavors with an earthy undertone, and a peppery note in the finish. Have fun!