I know, it's not November. But the taste of that sausage from the Rare Hare Barn in the Rabbit Spinach Gnocchi, lingers in my memory. That's why I lept at the invitation to attend a heritage turkey tasting sponsored by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy. I accompanied FoodMuse to one of the most beautiful farms I have ever seen: Ayrshire Farm in Upperville, Virginia, a farm dedicated to preserving rare breeds, organically and humanely raised. The first part of the day included a tour of the farm. Friendly faces met us everywhere! The Scotch
Highland Cattle were as curious about us as we were about them.
The Gloucester Old Spot Hogs peered at us from under their huge floppy ears - we only saw the young ones, the mature hogs spend their days like good hogs should, in the forest rooting about for special goodies and taking great care of their babies. We were informed that when the pigs were confined in large sections of field that they were not good mothers and mortality among the infants was high.
When the pigs, ancestors of wild boars, were released to the forest areas, the size of their litters increased and they became excellent mothers.
The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy brings together a consortium of farmers and breeders who are preserving and aiding in the proliferation of over 150 rare and endangered breeds of livestock and poultry. A non-profit organization, It educates the public about the importance of genetic diversity and sponsors research on the various breed populations. Membership includes scientists, farmers, and
concerned citizens. One third of the 4000 plus members raise rare breeds.
And need we say anything about taste? Nestled in among the nine roasted turkeys was one of those commercial birds that was mysteriously missing its tell-tale belly button. We were not told which one. I don't think there was a single person in that room that didn't immediately identify that bird by looks (a breast too large to walk), the pale dark meat, and tasteless white meat. The rest of the birds varied in taste and
looks as different breeds should. It will be a heritage turkey on our table this Thanksgiving!

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