THE OMNIVORE'S SOLUTION

Restaurants with Great Wine Service (and Great Food, of course)

In case you are not stuck in Lodi, but in Sacramento, here are a couple of restaurants worth visiting. Luc Dendievel (wondering about all the Belgian beers on the list?) is the chef at Restaurant 55, and he is certainly a master in creating simple, tasty dishes with the freshest ingredients. An entree based on poached eggs was just a perfect dinner after a long, hot summer day. The wine list is beautifully designed and easy to read, and consists of some well-known names, but mostly of small, family-owned vineyards. You can tell that the wine director knows her wines! A special twist is the presentation for the wines by the glass: the bottle is presented to the guest at the table, and then poured; this helps to remember the wine. The staff is very well educated in wine service. My server Summer did a magnificent job with a smile on her face, even when a corked wine showed up!

Or try Ristorante Piatti with their beautiful menu of European (mostly Italy) inspired dishes and wines. Their brick-oven pizza is fabulous! In Sacramento, they are located in a somewhat boring, upscale shopping mall, but the restaurant offers nice ambiance including outdoor seating. Not a large wine list, but a good selection and knowledgeable staff.

Stuck in Lodi Again

My trip is a couple of weeks back, but the memories of the wines tasted linger! Lodi, the famous, yet laid back wine region between the Sierra Foothills and the San Francisco Bay, has a lot more to offer than its famous Lodi Zinfandels. Mostly, the area is still farm country, and certainly not geared towards a lot of tourist traffic, but the vintners are very proud of the wines they are making and they love to present their products, and pull that special bottle open when they see that you are interested! Vino Piazza is a great way of showcasing wines of different wineries in a market-square setting. Many winemakers are now producing wines from grapes like Sangiovese and the Bordeaux varietals. At Boitano Family Wines, Bob Boitano showed me some outstanding, expressive Barberas. It was very educational to taste the 2004, 2005 and 2006 Boitano Family Wines Barbera ($20-24), and observe how the flavors were developing during bottle aging. The 2004 is very expressive and terroir-driven, with distinct cherry, smoke, mineral and clay flavors, with a peppery finish that lingers on and on. The 2005 is a little easier to drink and more fruit forward, but shows a lot of character, too. The 2006 needs more aging to mellow out, but shows the same potential as the 2004.

Pasos Vineyards is another example for Lodi's ability to produce classy, yet reasonably priced wines. Antonio Pasos is happy to show you his beautiful products, for example the 2005 Pasos Vineyard Collaboration Celebration Alta Mesa ($40), an impressive blend of Syrah, Grenache, Tannat, Counoise and Viognier. Its elegant mouthfeel and the eucalyptus, smoke, red cherry, spice and aromatics flavor are leading into a long, lingering finish with drying tannins. This is a wine for game and strongly flavored meat dishes, yet very European in style. The 2005 Pasos Vineyard Reserve Dastarte Lodi ($49) is another great example of a full, elegant and complex Bordeaux-style wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec make for a full, rich, mouthfilling wine which is starting out with lush fruitiness, leading into wood and soft spice flavors. The finish is showing a lot of mint, cedar and smoke. Both wines need more time in the cellar, but are delicious already.

Stone Fruit/Berry Tart with Almond Cream and Whole Grain Crust

Our Takoma Park farm market oozes stone fruits and berries at this time of the year.  If they weren’t so costly, one could really gorge on these beauties.  This tart shows off the fresh acidic/sweet flavors of the local fruit and the leftovers make the most divine breakfast treat for the next morning.

I credit the idea for this tart to the popular Chocolate and Zucchini blog.  My rendition includes whole grain flour, highly flavored natural sugar, and ground blanched almonds in the filling (because if you have ever tasted the inside of an apricot or peach pit, almond flavor jumps out.  Almost any stone fruit or berry will work for the top.  If your plums are tart, be sure to include a final sprinkling of extra sugar on top before you bake.  We didn’t, but in spite of the puckery surprise, enjoyed the tart immensely!  Thank you Clotilde for the inspiration – no one knows tarts like the French.

Plum Tart with Almond Cream and Whole Grain Crust

1 1/2 pounds not dead-ripe plums cut in half and stones removed (substitute any other variety of stone fruit: apricots, black cherries, peach slices.)

Crust:

1 C Organic White Whole Wheat Flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/3 C Demerara sugar (or unrefined raw sugar)
6 T cold unsalted organic European Style butter (higher fat content)
    or 7 T regular unsalted butter

1/4 C ice water as needed

Filling:

1 1/4 C whole raw almonds, skins removed (see blanching directions below)
2 T sugar (Demerara or raw sugar)
1 egg
3 T crème fraiche (or sour cream)
1 tsp almond flavoring

Topping:
Prepared fruit
1 T sugar to sprinkle on top before baking if fruit is too tart

Garnish:
3 T crème fraiche and 2 tsp sugar, whipped

Bring 3 C water to boil in 2 qt pan, drop almonds into water to loosen skins.  Return to boil and immediately remove from heat while you gather your ingredients.  After 5 minutes, rinse almonds in cold water and from pointed end, squeeze each almond beween your thumb and forefinger, removing skin.  Place almonds on paper towels to dry.  When finished, pat tops with another paper towel to dry thoroughly.

Preheat oven to 350 F and place rack in center of oven.

Prepare crust:
Cut butter into 1/2 inch bits.  Place flour and sugar and salt in bowl of food processor and pulse 10 times to mix.  Add butter and pulse again until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal.  Turn on processor and drizzle ice water through feed tube until mixture begins to form small, coarse clumps (about 2-3 seconds).  Squeeze with your fingers to see if mixture holds together.  If not, add a few more drops of water and pulse again.  Mixture will be crumbly, but easily squeezed together.  Butter the sides of a ceramic 10 inch tart pan (or sides and bottom of a metal tart pan).  Pour mixture into tart pan and press gently with flat hands to cover bottom and fingers to line sides of pan.  Bake for 15 minutes.  Remove and allow to cool slightly.  (Can be prepared 1 day ahead and refrigerated covered with plastic wrap.)

Prepare filling:
Combine blanched almonds minus the skins and sugar in bowl of processor and process until almonds are coarsely ground.  Add rest of filling ingredients and process until smooth, adding additional small amounts of crème fraiche to make a spreadable mixture.  Scoop into crust and spread with spatula to cover bottom evenly.  Top with fruit to cover filling in a decorative manner.  Sprinkle fruit with a little sugar and continue baking for 30 minutes.  Cool on a rack. 

Before serving cooled tart, whip cream with sugar and decorate each piece with a dollop of the cream.  

Note:  Crème Fraiche (recipe here) is so easy to make with good whole cream from grass-fed cows.  It keeps a very long time and when mixed with a little sugar and whipped it provides an elegant European version of whipped cream.  I am able to get raw cream from grass-fed cows – with all its health benefits. If you can take the time to locate Demerara sugar, it is well worth using in this dessert for its deep flavors.  Whole Foods carries it.  Not quite ripe plums will make it infinitely easier to pit!   I learned that the hard way!!!

Liquid Gold from the Sierra Foothills - El Dorado County

In this region, you will stumble across one or the other now deserted goldmine from the Wild West years. Who would have thought that this somewhat rugged area would produce such great wines one day? Some of the winding roads in the mountains require a 10 (!) mile speed limit, and at times, I wasn't sure if my little car would be able to make it. Obviously, the climate is good for grape growing. Jodar is making an exceptional blend of Bordeaux varietals, the 2004 Jodar Apollo's Lyre (Estate Bottled) Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend ($32). If you like lots of brown spice flavors, such as nutmeg, clove, cinnamon and allspice in your wine, this one is for you. It also shows nice black fruit, the wine is full-bodied without being heavy, layered and complex, with a long finish. The firm tannins and acidity make this a wine that needs food to really shine.

In a pocket with a foggy, cooler microclimate, Madrona Winery grows an expressive Nebbiolo, a grape that usually does not like to be moved from its home area in Piedmont. Their 2004 Madrona Nebbiolo displays an array of typey meat, dried herb, rose, violet, soy and strawberry flavors, it has the typical pale, brick orange color and firm tannins. Perfect with mushrooms, truffle and game dishes, and a bargain for $18! Madrona Winery is part of the Apple Hill Wine Trail, an area well suited for travelers who like to go off the beaten path.

Wineries at the Sierra Foothills - European Style Wines

The fanciest winery I've visited so far is Bella Piazza in the Shenandoah Valley. I was trying to avoid the too tourist-y places with gift shops and limos parked in the front, but this one was definitely worth a visit due to its 2004 Bella Piazza Barbera ($28), that is full, rich, yet elegant. Often, Barbera can be thin and non-descript. This winemaker managed to make a flavorful and expressive wine, with dried fruit, herb, spice, tobacco and smoke flavors. It was also interesting to taste their 11-month-old barrel sample, that showed some of the fruit and spice, but the wood flavors had not integrated yet. Their other Italian varietals, such as Sangiovese, Primitivo and Montepulciano are also worth trying. If there were just not Celine Dion blaring out of loudspeakers in their beautiful gardens...

Domaine de la Terre Rouge, on the other hand, specializes in French Rhone varietals, and creates a series of elegant, enjoyable wines. Their Easton series, which include Cabs and Zins, is worth trying as well. Jane, the co-owner of the winery, is a chef and cookbook author who is also giving out wine and food pairing notes to customers. A wine you don't stumble across every day in Amador County is the 2004 Terre Rouge Muscat-a-Petits Grains, Shenandoah ($15), a lush dessert wine with expressive flavors of ripe peaches, honey, tropical fruit and lots of melon. Enjoy this terrific wine with fresh fruit, such as sliced yellow peaches. Terre Rouge's Eau de Vie, made from plums, is certainly capable of waking up the dead. Tip: for drivers who don't want to drink any 40% alc beverage, rub a few drops on your hands and smell; this will give you an idea how the Eau tastes like.

A German Winemaker in the Dry Creek Valley?

Driving through the beautiful Dry Creek Valley, the German name Goepfrich on a road sign caught my attention and sure made me curious enough to call this winemaker from his driveway for an appointment. Ray and Bonnie Goepfrich make about 600 cases of hand-crafted Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and one for sure can taste that these wines are a labor of love (and backbreaking work in the vineyard). Ray Goepfrich's parents immigrated from Germany to the US, where they met and got married. Interestingly, Goepfrich also sells German Rieslings from Klemmer in Westhofen in the Rheinhessen region, an area where I've spent 6 years of my life and got to know and to love wine! Now to Goepfrich's wines. Everything tastes truly great, but the 2006 Goepfrich Syrah ($33) is my favorite, with its lovely pepper, crushed berry, licorice, spice and cinnamon flavors. The finish is long and lingering, with hints of wood and earth notes. Bone-dry and with good structure, this is not a wimpy wine, and it needs robust meat dishes. The wines are available at the winery only, but if you happen to be in the area, be sure to pay a visit!

The Russian River Valley Wineries and Wines

In search for cooler climate wines, I was heading out to Sonoma County last weekend. The Russian River Valley is cooled during the night by Pacific Ocean fog, and allows to grow more subtle, yet expressive and terroir-driven wines. First stop was at Christopher Creek Winery. Their 2006 Christopher Creek Russian River "Catie's Corner" Viognier for $28 (yes, the individual vineyards are very important in this area) is stainless steel fermented and therefore fresh and lively, with floral, tart yellow fruit, apricot and tropical fruit flavors. The finish is a little peppery with lots of mineral. Their best wine, however, are their Christopher Creek Russian River Estate Bottled Reserve Petite Sirahs ($32), with the 2005 released, but I also had the chance to taste the 2006 (which was even more flavorful). These wines are big and full-bodied, both are too young and need more time in the bottle, but their boysenberry, cherry, tobacco, would and herb flavors are delicious. The winemaker managed to make rich wines which are at the same time elegant on the palate.

Another one on the list is a winemaker (Limerick Lane) with the most subtle, velvety and flavorful Pinot Noir I've ever had from California. This region is not known for muted wines, and Pinots are usually fruit-driven, unelegant and too bold. The 2006 Limerick Lane Orsi Vineyard Pinot Noir ($38) is made in the Burgundian style, revealing layers and layers of toast, strawberry, cherry, humus, mushroom, and some edgy wood and smoke flavors. It is elegant and silky on the palate, with a hint of brown sugar and cola in its mineral finish that goes on and on and on. A lenghthy talk with the proprietor, Michael Collins, revealed their passion for the terroir and that "good wines are made in the vineyard"; in other words, the winemaker works with the best quality grapes and then stays "out of their way" in the winery. This can also be seen in their delicious Zinfandel and Syrah, and blends thereof. The wines are layered and full-bodied, while preserving elegance and minerality, and the flavor of the "place", the soil. Another favorite is the 2006 Limerick Lane 1023 ($38), a mouthcoating Zin/Syrah blend that is powerful and displays bold red and black fruit, smoke, pepper, vanilla, spice, toast and meat that keep lingering for a long time. Bring out the pepper steaks!

Handcrafted Wines for Carnivores (and everyone else)

The wines I've tasted in Napa last weekend for sure fall in the wines for barbecue and meat department. They are made by vintners who grow their grapes with a lot of care and take great pride in their wines. At Milat Vineyards, it is all about the wines. No tourist attractions (except for nice accomodations), no tour buses, no limos, but a spotless winemaking facility with 20 acres of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel grapes, and some Tourigo National to go into their port-style wine. All their wines are lovely, but the 2005 Milat Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($36) is certainly worth mentioning separately with its layers of rich fruit, spice and wood flavors. The tannins are not too puckery, but this wine certainly needs some more years of aging. The eucalyptus trees in the vineyard must be imposing some of their flavors into the wine; another interesting layer. An absolutely lovely Zinfandel, if not the best I have had so far, is the 2005 Milat Vineyards Napa Valley Zinfandel ($23) with its sophistication and complexity. Spices, pepper, cherry, plum and crushed berry flavors with a distinct wood and (here it is again!) eucalyptus note caress the palate. In spite of its 15.8% alcohol, it is balanced and elegant on the palate. I've enjoyed it with all kinds of cheeses and fresh French bread and olives for an al fresco lunch in the Rutherford hills!

Girard Winery is making very enjoyable wines as well. Friends of big, brooding, chewy and mouthcoating wines will enjoy the 2006 Girard Petite Sirah Napa Valley ($28), that calls for braised meat dishes.

Read It and Cheer!

Since many of you stop for the recipes and seldom (according to FeedBurner - beware big brother is watching) click-through to The Omnivore's Dialog, I'm making special mention of a post on the Dialog.  It includes a link (come on, just one simple click of the mouse and a few minutes of engaged reading!), to an inspiring article from an unlikely source.  Note:  I am referrencing this article in a city that has distinguished itself by banning fois gras, a remarkable feat in a place where a good cup of coffee, let alone a tasty sandwich is next to impossible to find!  Darn, I won't be able to get my weekly supply of fois gras at the local Co-op any more!  Those of you that live in Takoma Park know exactly what I mean! 

My Favorite Time of Year

The December Holidays probably rank high on most people’s list of favorite times of the year.  Not mine, too much bustle, commercialism, pressure – contrast that with receiving the gifts of nature, the bounty of health-giving produce and products of our local farmers!  Yes, they are not free – but we exchange our hard-earned money for things that will enrich our health and our lives, bring friends and family to the table, and engage our creativity in the kitchen. 

Gourmenator decided to bicycle the Catoctins with a fellow cyclist today and thus my sherpa and my “don’t we need some more of that?” man was not at my side.  While trying to ignore the aching arms from carrying four heavy bags the long six blocks to the house, I pondered the abundance at the market and thought about what I would do with the large variety of produce that was weighing me down.

A special moment occurs when I begin to unpack those bags. Ready for the longest run-on sentence ever?  I determine which things need more time in warmth – the apricots and plums which are on the verge of ripe, tomatoes which NEVER go into the refrigerator unless they are rotting;  which things go to the freezer – the frozen/fresh chickens that are now being offered by Smith Meadows (the kind that scratch, eat bugs and grubs, and peck at weeds in the pastures, the kind that produce eggs that are high in Omega 3’s as well as providing us with Omega 3’s in their meat), the bacon from pastured and wooded pigs – another bounty from Smith Meadows;  which veggies and fruits go in the upstairs refrigerator to be used in the next few days - eggplant, summer squash, blackberries – (did you ever see such big ones?), blueberries,  frisee to be wilted and dressed with Smith Meadows bacon;  which veggies go in the downstairs refrigerator along with leftovers for another day  - Swiss chard in a rainbow of colors, 2 giant purple “sweet” onions –(sweet is a euphemism for “you had better soak them in ice water or you will cry your eyes out!”), some fresher than fresh garlic and baby cukes minus the one that became part of my reward for unpacking along with some blackberries, one apricot, one plum, and carrot sticks dipped in a feta-dill-roasted pepper spread from dinner the night before.  Whew – I warned you!

But really, that’s how I feel about the Takoma Park Farm Market (and for that matter any great farm market).  I’ll keep you posted on the recipes that were dancing through my head as I organized the goodies.